The Mighty Mississippi ????

(Wednesday Sept 12 - Dist: 60.7 mi; Avg Speed: 8.0 mph;
        Locks: 2; LWT: 2 Hrs; TTT: 8:30 hrs)

T’was a fine day for travelling. The first little bit of the Mississippi River has cliffs on one side and the flats, a flood plain, on the other. Everything was fine until we arrived at Lock # 27, Chain of Rocks Lock. The main chamber was unserviceable because someone hit something and may have damaged a valve and there was a tow stuck trying to get into the auxiliary chamber. They must have raised the water level a bit in our pool because he finally got in after about an hour… then he was hard aground trying to get out of the lock. There was even another tug there and they took about another hour to free him. There was no raising the pool on the down side because there are no more dams on the Mississippi River; free sailing right to New Orleans.
 

After the 2 hour delay we carried on and soon went by St. Louis. Other than the Arch we could not see much. There is a concrete wall along the river to keep high water out of the city and we were very low. In fact Fern at Hoppies says the river is about 14 feet below normal for this time of year.  The water level has even dropped a further foot each of the last 2 days. I do not understand why the city of St. Louis does not have any marinas whatsoever. True there is a ton of barge traffic and commercial docks but one would think that you could fit in at least one marina. Oh well, we dodged all of the tows and the barges which were anchored in the river and made it to Hoppies by 4 PM.

The Mississippi River is a totally different river than 2 years previous. There are very few places where the water is turbulent and swirling and one can see all of the wing dams. Docking at Hoppies was a non event this time.All Linda and I could remember about our first visit here was the three attempts that The Old Grouch needed to dock at the barges.

This year it wasn’t exciting at all; actually fairly normal. Then I looked around. The wing dam just below Hoppies was a non issue the first time because I drove over it when we docked in 2010. The water was right up to the edge of the river bank so you can see how dramatic the difference is in just the 2 years.

With the low water levels we have been forced to move on because another 6 boats are expected to arrive today and they need our spots on the barge. Fortunately, the next stop, our only choice, is just 42 miles away so we wereable to go in and visit the pretty town of Kimmswick and eat lunch at the famous Blue Owl restaurant.

Off to Kaskaskia Lock and Dam.

Grafton IL

(Wednesday Sept 5 - Dist: 87.9 mi; Avg Speed: 9.7 mph;
        Locks: 1; LWT: 0 mins; TTT: 9:15 hrs)

It did not take us long to grab a cooler and head for the pool; refreshing after the long, wet, cold then hot day. While relaxing on Headquarters a soon to be Looper joined us to find out how the Loop was going. Evidently, he is starting the Loop in early October.

Our new friend John from Kansas City, on the boat Satisfaction, suggested while he was here with his car that he take us up the hill to the Aeries Winery. Wow. Not only were the views spectacular but the personal pizzas were very good; all made from scratch. Then after being dropped off we decided to check out the music and hilarity at Castaways Bar right behind the marina. The people are so friendly down here that we had a few drinks with this couple who turned out to be the owners of the winery and other properties in the area including a new Zip Line. Well we got along so well that they invited us to go “Rangering” after dark the next night. Yeah we had no idea either.

 

Following a trip to the Walmart Supercenter and some more fun at the pool we called our new friends and he picked us up in a Polaris Ranger ATV (All Terrain Vehicle). Up the hill we went and after another fine dinner at the winery we set off; off road that is. The Zip Line staff were determining if it was feasible and desirable to do after dark zip lining. Well it did look impressive with the lights on the helmets and people whizzing through the trees. We followed them down, all nine sections worth and then back to the winery for more supplies. My cooler held up but the owners are in a league by themselves and thus the restocking. With fresh supplies we headed out again into some rougher terrain and after going through a dried creek bed to avoid a locked gate we arrived at their condo. A quick tour, a fresh refill and down we went to town for a couple of nightcaps at one of the local establishments; one that I hadn’t been to yet although I must admit details are fuzzy from this point on. Wow, what a night.

The promised storm arrived while we were in the pool on Friday so we moved under cover and never missed a beat. We agreed that a Barbie and a more sedate evening was in order after are first two nights. Saturday was festival day; actually “Rockin’ on the River” day… Parties and live bands all over town.

We managed to take in 3 or 4 of them including a wine and food festival. Despite our best efforts we were well short of some of the other party goers. “C” Dock apparently did not quiet down until just before dawn. I had no trouble passin../// sleeping.

The best band however was at the biker bar the next afternoon, Sunday. Us and Headquarters decided to go to for an early lunch to the Wild Goose and ran into a fairly crusty barmaid. We think it was all show but I am not certain. It was then on the way back at the Hawg Pit, the biker bar, that we heard the band.

The place was packed with all of the neatest bikes and couples imaginable. We planned to stay for one beer but only left before the last set at 5 PM so that we could meet up with The Last Resort who we originally met in the Bahamas and periodically up the east coast.

We had planned to try the ribs right from the first day so we gathered up a bunch of Loopers, 12 in all, and went back to the Hawg Pit for a very good dinner of ribs. We were sitting on picnic tables, no tablecloths and a plastic fork but oh were the ribs so good. We decided to take it easy Monday and Tuesday in preparation for the trip down the Mississippi. I injured my knee somewhere over the previous few days so my mobility was limited: to the pool, to the Happy Hour and then to dinner.

Notice who is sitting on the one bike.

Grafton was a great stop and we had a great week but reality sets in on Wednesday.

Beardstown IL

(Tuesday Sept 4 - Dist: 79.8 mi; Avg Speed: 9.7 mph;
        Locks: 1; LWT: 0 mins; TTT: 8:25 hrs)

There is Headquarters and Q's End tied up to the barges for the night.  With the lower water levels we have had to pass by some nice stops because there is insufficient water in those harbors.  This had made for some longer travel days but we are now in the more interesting sections of the Illinois River.  We have seen several bald eagles, many herons and egrets, and of course the white pelicans. 

Well we did have to get past Peoria and all of the industry in that area.  I am not sure which plant this is but I do know the Caterpillar has it's headquarters here as well as a huge plant or two.

Logsdon Tug Service is a fully working tug service which allows boaters to tie off for a dollar a foot without any electrical or water.  I am not even sure if they have restrooms. 

They did however go fetch the loaded barge that we were tied to accommodate all the boats which came in.  We did manage to go out for some quite good Mexican food and we did check out there newest bar.  Linda was even comfortable on the barges as we waited for some other Loopers to join us for supper.

Along the way we did encounter another dredge.  This one was just throwing the silt and sand onto shore.  It was a narrow section of the river so he had to move to allow us to pass.

 

 

The next morning was not pretty.  All of the other boats left early but we were flabbergasted.  There was a severe weather warning for our immediate area and it looked it.  The thunder, lightening and strong winds did come but fortunately we were quite secure on the barge.  It all ended about 8 AM and we were able to travel with only a brief rain shower later in the morning.  We stopped at one point to watch this young buck swim across the river.  Interesting. 

It was another long day but we reached Grafton Harbor in good spirits and immediately headed for the pool with our well used cooler bag. 

Good Times at the IVY Club

(Wednesday Aug 29 to Tuesday Sept 4)

The Illinois Valley Yacht Club, what a great club.  The members have welcomed us and encouraged us to participate in all of their Holiday Weekend activities.  One of the highlights has been the Pig Roast.

  

I arranged this specifically for my bride of 40 years.  I had to do the carving but she was impressed. In fact, everyone had so much fun that Bob and Pam offered to do it again for us next year. ..... Well I am just kidding but only about the arrangements.  Every year a group of members roast a pig.  It takes 24 hours and I must say that they look after it with tender loving care ...or at least they stay with it all night hanging around the camp fire re-filling coolers as necessary.  The pulled pork was superb.  I would love to mention everyone but I am afraid that I might miss someone.  Tim, I know that you would feel bad if you were not mentioned, so thank you for including us.

This year was even more challenging than most.  Isaac hit during the preparations and continued until just before it was time to take it off the fire.  It rained throughout Saturday and off and mostly on throughout the night.  At one point on Saturday, the tornado warning sirens sounded as we were under a tornado watch.  I heard that one did touch down about 30 miles north of us.  Anyway, the effort was certainly worth it.  Great fun and oh so tasty. 

On Labour Day was another event: the cardboard boat race.  The entries were unbelievable and the place was packed.  Different groups and even other boat clubs put a lot of time and thought into their entries.  Click on the pictures to enlarge them.  

The Start

The Finish

The Slow Poke but well ahead of the Titanic which sunk shortly after the start.

Linda and I really want to thank all of the members of the Illinois Valley Yacht Club for making it such a wonderful weekend for us; For including us in their activities, for lending us a car, for being so darn friendly and for showing up to see us off. 

Under Attack Again - Peoria IL

(Wednesday Aug 29 - Dist: 74.3 mi; Avg Speed: 9.7 mph;
        Locks: 1; LWT: 40 mins; TTT: 7:50 hrs)

This is our worst encounter with the Asian Carp.  As you can see we just passed two up bound tows and I guess the fish objected.  We were hit at least 7 times.  The slime and sometimes blood is left behind.  Periodically, throughout the trip we could hear and feel the fish hit the boat.  Here at the Illinois Valley Yacht (IVY) Club they are plentiful in the harbor and often jump onto the dock scaring the bejeezes out of us, well Linda anyway.

The Club is quite nice with an excellent pool and bar.  We will be staying here until after Labour Day.  We are taking another vacation... and waiting until Isaac passes and the rivers clear of debris and small pleasure crafters.  That is not my term but what the tow captains call all non commercial boaters: Pleasure Crafters.

We were very fortunate on this travel day.  When we arrived at the sole lock (Starved Rock) for the day, there was a tow directly in front of us.  We were told we would have to wait until "Sugarland" cleared the lock and then they would see.  That was not good because I knew that there was another down bound tow only a few miles behind.  That was when luck struck.  Sugarland's head office told him to stay put and not move until further notice.  He was just about to enter the lock but backed off to the holding area and that is when we were invited into the lock.  Many hours were saved by an executive in New Orleans were Sugarland was headed.  We later heard that he was to take his load to somewhere else further north so he had to turn around.

The River is changing, becoming a lot more scenic and with more birds.  Above are thousands of American White Pelicans.  They are prettier than their brown cousins that we see in Florida.  This next photo may be starved rock after which the lock and dam are named but I am only guessing.  It is a much better view than the industry of a few days ago.

With the low water levels dredging is a common sight.  This dredge was working on the narrow channel just before the lock.  The US Army Corps of Engineers manages these waters and this is one of their units.

There will, I am sure, be more photos and info from the IVY Club but I just wanted to get out a quick note so that people would know where we are spending the Holiday Weekend.  Please enjoy yours.

Well I did say that the River is becoming more scenic.  This bone yard is near Upper Peoria Lake at Hamms Marina.  Oh well.



Heritage Harbor, Ottawa IL

(Saturday Aug 25 - Dist: 45.3 mi; Avg Speed: 8.0 mph;
      Locks: 3; LWT: 40 mins; TTT: 7:25 hrs)

We are taking a mini vacation here because it is so nice and the people here have been great.  Of course Linda loves the pool and we are getting in at least once a day.  Tracey's Restaurant and Bar which is on-site is not bad as well.  I can honestly say that I tried all of their draft beers (about 7) and only found one that I did not care for.

The highlight of the stay however was a visit to the Bade's estate, where we were privileged to have a meal of his "competition" style ribs.  It takes most of the day to prepare and they were superb; better than many that I have tried at different Rib Festivals.  We liked them a lot. 

We got lucky on the river once again.  The Brandon lock was ready for us when we called from Joliet and the trip was good although the river was very busy being that it was Saturday and the weather was perfect.  The tows cooperated but we are starting to see larger configurations now that we have left the narrow canals.  At one point we were following a tow pushing three 379 x 54 foot barges in a very narrow area.  I called the captain and asked him to let us know when it would be safe to pass and I added that there was no hurry.  Well he told me to come on up closer "he ain't throw'n much sweat".  I creeped up assuming he was not going to bash me with his prop wash.  At that point he had all of the channel covered.  Sure enough though he called and said as soon as I clear the corner of the stationary barge on the side you can swing on by.  I had about 30-40 feet so I dipped around him and immediately ran into a tug coming out of a side channel so I backed off and followed him and eventually passed the tow.  That was the closest yet that I have needed to be when passing on of these monsters.

We came across a ??? trailer park of houseboats.  I guess that is the closest thing to a gated community that Phred and Candy can belong to.  lol

Then another first at the Marseilles (pronounced Mar-sells) lock.  There were three tows waiting to go down, one waiting to come up and one already in the lock.  After talking to the captain of the third tow in line and almost resigning myself to the fact that the afternoon would be spent anchored near some dam, he convinced me to get closer and call the lock master.  I did and lo and behold the lock master said 30 minutes.  Wow.  When we got to the actual lock, there was a tow with three barges in the holding area to the the left and six barges, 3 across, being winched out of the lock.  Sorry Lisa, Linda was too stressed to take any photos.  When they were clear we were given the go ahead to enter the lock.  We could not see any opening.  We worked our way between the barges, a long narrow chute of rusty steel, to the end wall of concrete where we could finally see that the barges were pulled about 25 feet past the wall of the lock.  Linda kept saying that we can't fit, we won't fit, oh s!@#.  After two 90 degree turns we squeezed between the last barge and the wall and then into the lock.  No worries.  It saved us a whole day.  Thank you Marr-selllsss.

Mmm, Mmm good!!!!