Grand Harbor Resort, Iuka MS

(Thursday Oct 4 - Dist: 45.5 mi; Avg Speed: 7.8 mph;
        Locks: 1; LWT: 35 mins; TTT: 6:15 hrs)

It was another nice day for travelling and we were making decent time until we got closer to the Pickwick Dam.  Here the Tennessee River is narrow and they were letting a fair bit of water go through the dam causing us to lose a further 2 mph in our speed.  Our speed on the Mississippi was 12.3 mph and during the last hour before reaching the Pickwick dam we were going 7.2 mph at the same engine RPM's.  It doesn't make sense but we have been fighting the current on all of the rivers since leaving the Mississippi.  The Ohio and even the Cumberland Rivers are logical but on the Tennessee we have been travelling south for a couple of weeks but the river current flows north.  The Tennessee starts way out past Chattanooga and empties into the Ohio about 30 miles from the point where the Ohio empties into the Mississippi. 

Despite fighting a current most of the way we travelled 511 miles between fuel stops; the furthest range we have ever gone.  Of course, it was painful when I filled up here at Grand Harbor: 305 gallons at $3.94 per for a total of $1204.  Oh well, it had to be done as our fuel tank only holds 450 gals. and we are soon leaving civilization.

There may be a drought in the mid-west that has seriously reduced or destroyed much of the crops but here on the Tennessee there is an abundance of product... gravel and sand that is.  We encountered 4 of these dredge type units that were sucking up the bottom and then grading the results and loading them onto different barges.  I guess that this is were river rock for the gardens comes from.

Many people have seen better times down along this way.  When someone says that they have a roof over their head, often it means that they have a carport-like roof over their trailer.  Some even have room for their house and their bass boat.

We had to wait a bit for this tow to clear the lock when we arrived but we still got through in about an hour.  It was a significant lift at 57 feet.  Now I can understand why there was such a current on the low side. 

On the high side of the dam is Pickwick Lake.  It seems to be a popular and quite an up scale vacation area.  There are numerous lodges and of course the Pickwick Landing State Park. 

Grand Harbor Marina, our home for the week, is another example of the well-to-do.  The staff is absolutely great and the marina has all the amenties that one could hope for... although this week we are hoping for warmer weather.  There are even 3 courtesy vehicles that are less than a year old available for us transients.  We have taken advantage and have golfed Shiloh Falls and have gone into Savannah TN to re-provision.  Here are a few shots from around the marina complex. 

The Rockers are a great place to gather and we do.

Anchorage at Swallow Bluff Island

(Wednesday Oct. 3 - Dist: 53.1 mi; Avg Speed: 8.8 mph; TTT: 6:00 hrs)

We chose this nice spot behind Swallow Bluff Island to spend the night.  There was another boat in the anchorage but for all intents and purposes we were alone and it was quiet. 

Just because we were on the hook for the night we still could indulge in a fine meal and a good bottle of wine.  It is too bad that we have not found places like this near Windsor.  It is very relaxing and enjoyable.  The water was even warm enough to swim but the current through here was a little too swift for us; after all I am not a strong swimmer and Linda swims like a rock.

I will leave you with a few photos of the Tennesse River.

Leaves are starting to turn.

Cuba Landing, TN

(Tuesday Oct. 2 - Dist: 49.2 mi; Avg Speed: 9.3 mph; TTT: 5:20 hrs)

Well all good things come to an end.  After another round of golf and another all-you-can-eat buffet we decided to continue south.... alone.  Our friends on Headquarters rented a car and spent 4-5 days between Nashville and Memphis and had not yet returned after our week in Paris Landing.  We hope to catch them further down the line somewhere.

Our next major "destination" was Grand Harbor Marina at the start of the Tom-Bigbee system.  We decided to divide the trip into 3 equal days of travel which brought us to Cuba Landing Marina. ??? No one answered the phone, no one was at the fuel dock, office or restaurant.  We decided to make ourselves at home.  Once settled in, we did call an emergency number on the door only to find out that they are closed Monday and Tuesdays but no problem, we were told to enjoy ourselves and that they would see us in the morning.  So we did.

 After a very quiet night and a serene morning view off our back deck, we pushed off on our next leg.

Bargain City

(Tuesday Sept 25 - Dist: 33.9 mi; Avg Speed: 7.6 mph;  TTT: 4:45 hrs)

Paris Landing State Park, a nice Marina, floating docks, good facilities, and superb rates.  $28.70 per night; electric, cable and water included.  On top of that we ate dinner at the Lodge, an all-you-can-eat buffet for $8.25.  The senior (Linda) even got a 10% discount on her meal.  The food was not gourmet but good: fried chicken, chicken and dumplings, roast chicken, chicken tenders and chicken livers.  You guessed it, it was chicken night and it hit the spot.

On Wednesday the four of us Tony, Shirley, Linda and I, golfed at the State Park golf course.  Hills, woods, birds and deer were par for the day.  It was very scenic and enjoyable.  $25 / person; cart and pick up included.  A six pack to go in an iced cooler was $13.  What a great day.  We plan on staying awhile to enjoy the surroundings.

The Quiet Life

(Sat. Sept 22 - Dist: 9.3 mi; Avg Speed: 7.2 mph; TTT: 1:15 hrs)

Your right not very far but after a great week of fine dining, swimming and playing tourist we decided to spend some time at the beautiful anchorages on Kentucky Lake. 

Pisgah Bay was a great choice; quite large with nice camping areas along a small part of the shoreline.  A beautiful, quiet spot very near the Rock Quarry.  I was expecting a little more of a party atmosphere since it was a weekend but I guess even here with the air temp at 85 and the water at 78, summer is over.  We did some exploring in the dinghy, some swimming and a fine BBQ on Q’s End with our friends on Headquarters.  The girls even let the guys win a few games of euchre; thank you girls.

Just a couple more shots of the decorated walls at the Rock Quarry and a serene morning view of our neighbours.

(Monday Sept 24 - Dist: 6.9 mi; TTT: 1:15 hrs)

After two pleasant relaxing days in Pasgah Bay we moved a little further down Kentucky Lake on the "Land Between the Lakes" State Park and wildlife areas.  This place, Duncan Bay, actually is a restricted refuge between Nov. 1 and March 15.  We were able to see a Bald eagle capture a fish and many Golden eagles flying around.  Herons and egrets were numerous.  A very nice quiet spot and a most beautiful evening BBQ'g on Q's End.

The beautiful evening turned into a windy morning about 3 AM and made it difficult to sleep with the waves slapping against the hull and the anchor rode making noise as we "sailed" in the wind.  It got worse when we tried to retrieve our anchor: we ended up pulling up one of those lounge chairs with the plastic ribs instead of the cheap nylon.  It was heavy and the windlass wouldn't handle it so the captain to the rescue.

Next stop Paris Landing State Park, TN for another mini vacation.

All the Way to Green Turtle Bay

(Saturday Sept 15 - Dist: 74 mi; Avg Speed: 7.5 mph;

        Locks: 3; LWT: 0 hrs; TTT: 11:45)

Locks #53 and 52 on the Ohio River are the worst, by far, of all the locks on the Great Loop.  Fortunately both will be replaced by the Olmstead Locks and Dam, that is if it ever gets completed.  I could not notice any progress from two years ago.

By the time I woke up the early birds had already arranged to lock through at 7:30 AM.  It was ugly.  The three largest boats were rafted together at the only flat section in the lock while the two shorter boats had to "back down" on a bow line.  Headquarters and Q's End were the lucky ones.  Toucan held both of us off the old rusty lock wall.  There were jagged bits and holes so fenders were not very effective.  With the help of Tony and Shirley we were thankful that there was little or no damage. 

After the two Ohio River locks and an incident of poor, discourteous, seamanship (fortunately no one was injured) by another Looper we had a very pleasant ride up the Cumberland River. 

For whatever reason there are numerous quarries along the river; huge, huge quarries.  The shoreline was interesting and does show the rock layers.  Here is a small cave or break in the wall.

Soon we arrived at the Barkley Lock and Dam.  At 57 feet this is one of the higher lifts thus far and one of the higher ones (#3 I think behind Wilson and Carillon) in North America.  We have done them all and even did the Carillon on the Ottawa River in our previous boat, the 18 footer.

Tony and Shirley on Headquarters

All five of us arrived at the Marina / Resort just after 6 PM and were greeted by some fellow Loopers, the Hawg Pit crowd from Grafton, who informed us that the van was picking us in 45 minutes to go to Patti's restaurant the institution in Grand Rivers... and a good time was had by all after a very long day.

Since there is only one day left of our week stay here as I write this, I figure I might as well fill you in on our mini vacation.  Green Turtle Bay has two pools, one an indoor pool with saunas and exercise room, a restaurant, a yacht club with good food and courtesy vans and golf carts to get around.

We took advantage of the van to go into the beautiful town of Paduach.  I just have to show more photos of the levee wall even if you remember them from 2 years ago.  Another meal of fine dining, we have done 5 so far, and some provisioning; mostly wine.

One day we managed to go golfing at a very fine course called Mineral Mound, a Kentucky State course.  On another, we went to the State Park on "The Land Between the Lakes".  Here we saw a herd of American Bison and some Elk in a conservation area.  The rest of the time was spent updating the blog and attending activities in or near the pool.  The indoor pool was a great spot for Happy Hours.

Do not be surprised if my next updates are a number of days away.  We are going to do some anchoring on Kentucky Lake.  It probably will be a good thing to ??? de-compress?? no, dry out?? maybe.  Anyway here are some more photos.

Kaskaskia Lock and Dam and Lock #53

(Thursday Sept 13 - Dist: 42.2 mi; Avg Speed: 11.0 mph;
        Locks: 0; TTT: 3:55 hrs)

Notice how the speed has gone up almost 2 mph.  That is the current of the Mississippi greater than the current of the Illinois river.  The trip was uneventful until we got to the lock.  There on the outside of the lock wall where others have docked, was three barges from the US Corps of Engineers.  The lock master said that there was room in front and some room in behind the barges closer to the dam.  The two big boats took the easy access and Linda and I went around to the back.  It was a good quiet spot, so quiet that no one helped us dock.

Headquarters and Toucan tried the first wall but found that it was too shallow there so they came over to our spot.  There was only room for one other boat on the wall so Toucan rafted to Headquarters for the night.

Sorry we have no photos from the lock wall; an oversight.

The next morning was rather interesting as we needed an early start for the long journey.  The wind had come up enough to make it difficult to get out of our hole behind the barges.  We eventually managed and headed for the Ohio River over 100 miles away.


(Friday Sept 14 - Dist: 136.6 mi; Avg Speed: 11.5 mph;
        Locks: 0; TTT: 11:35 hrs)

One of the highlights in our long day of travel was passing an old Mississippi river boat.  It has 350 staterooms and is plying the river like in the old days.

I still cannot believe how low the water level is on the river.  Here are a few shots that those who travelled with us in 2010, will not recognize.

Cape Girardeau is another town along the river that has built a flood wall.  Seems impossible that the water could rise that high.

Well we managed to reach Lock #53 before dark and got comfortably anchored for the evening.  A nice quiet BBQ on Q's End and we were all ready for bed.