Columbus, Mississppi

(Monday, Nov. 1 - Dist: 42.2 mi; Avg Speed: 8.2 mph; TTT: 6:40 hrs; Locks: 3)

Monday, November 1 was another beautiful day down here in the south.  We even had a chance to linger and enjoy our coffee this morning because by the time we were ready to go at 8 AM we were informed by the Wilkins Lockmaster that there were 2 tows coming down river and that they were going to be locked through before us.  Oh well, you snooze, you lose.  Kim Jo III, one of the boats that anchored and cocktailed with us, on the other hand, was up at dawn and got through before the tows.

We weighed the anchor at 9:30 and by this time we had another flotilla of 6 boats.  The second lock was close so there was a bit of a delay while we waited for this fully loaded tow to inch it's way through.  It was full of coal.  (ASIDE: The States sure use an awful lot of coal fired generating plants to produce their electricity.  We have seen this extensively down through the river systems.)  The gap between the second and third lock of the day was about 15 miles so all of us were able to pass it in time to be locked through at our third lock of the day, Aberdeen.  From Aberdeen there was still 20 miles to the Columbus marina so I and two other boats picked up the pace and arrived about an hour before the rest of the pack.

What a shock when we arrived.  There were boats everywhere including 4 or 5 that were rafted to boats on the dock.  In fact, despite having a reservation, we are rafted to a 50 foot trawler.  Evidently, a reservation ensures that you get power and water but not necessarily space on a dock.  As it turns out, the couple in the boat that we are rafted to are super nice people.  They are from Mississippi but have been live aboards for 27 years.  They have travelled all over the place.  They have been here since July because the first mate broke her hip (she does not know when or how).  They are going to spend the winter here before they take off again.

The town of Columbus was fairly close so we took a taxi into town and went to a restaurant called Hucks.  It was very good.  We all, four of us, had something different and everyone was very pleased.  Linda had their crawfish etouffe (sp?) and said it was as good as she had in New Orleans.  My shrimp was excellent, etc.  Since we were staying for two days I finished the laundry while Linda went into town to re provision.  After that the girls visited an anti-bellum ??? property....old houses, I think. 

That evening 8 of us went to Hank's # 1 BBQ.  It was a small kinda run down place a little out of town.   Even though it was recommended by the locals I was very concerned when we entered.  The walls were full of writing (people signing there names; where is Waldo, Billy Bob loves Becky Sue, etc.), the floors were concrete and there was no hot water faucets in the washrooms.  There was no liquor licence so we brought our own and were given great big Styrofoam cups for our wine and beer.  (Rick can relate to this from a previous trip to an Alabama Rib Shack.)  Besides the lack of ambiance, the kicker came when the food arrived....just a single plastic fork to eat a full slab of ribs and a mess of beans.  I maintained my self control and figured that I would just eat with my hands.  BUT, I was shocked, the ribs separated with the plastic fork and the meat was absolutely delicious.... the best that I have ever eaten.  I just could not get over how good the ribs actually were.

We could not eat any dessert after the meal, in fact I took home a doggie bag, but we had to try one of the home made pies or cake.  We chose to take home a piece of coconut cake.  It looked so good when we got back to the boat that Linda and I stuffed ourselves before going to bed.  It was to die for...the best ever.  If in Columbus, MS, one must go to Hank's.

Since we had a rental car and there was 8 of us, the driver had to make 2 trips to the marina.  While 3 of us guys waited for our ride we spoke to the staff and owner of the restaurant.  It was past closing time by that time anyway.  It turns out that the owner competes in those rib fests and competitions all over.  He took us out to his cooker which was a fair size trailer and I am sure that it cost as much as the building that the restaurant was in.  In his competition cooker, he has three compartments that are insulated from each other.  He can do a whole pig, shoulders or ribs.  In the back he has water tanks that ensure that the heat is a moist heat.  He says that his secret to good moist ribs which fall off the bone is to cook them for 6 hours.  The first part gives them color and a BBQ flavour.  He then wraps them in tin foil so that they stay moist.  When ready to serve he takes them out of the foil and grills them some more.  THEY WERE VERY, VERY GOOD.

For our friends at Crysler Park Marina on the St. Lawrence River near Morrisburg. ON, I have finally caught up to Nomad.  For you others, friends of ours from our Ottawa days passed us in their boat, Nomad in Mackinaw City back in August.  They made it to Columbus almost a month earlier than us and have been back in Canada since that time.  Nomad, you will have to go to Hank's when you pick up your boat next spring.

It rained all day, hard at times and the forecast is the same for Wednesday so we are not sure if we are going to leave as planned.  Sorry, we forgot to take pictures today.  You would have enjoyed seeing all the boats rafted togehter and of course Hank's place. 

I had never thought that we would be spending so many nights and time in Mississippi.  I had thought that we would be travelling for the most part through Alabama to get to the Gulf.  Oh well, I go to bed a little smarter tonight.